KANNA
ca: KANNA
es: KANNA
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Kanna or tobikanna, Is a Japanese technique. It means “Leap of iron”
It’s a texture that can only be made as the work is turned on the wheel.
It creates on a clay surface an engraved continues texture. Flexible metal tools are used and are held against the clay as the wheel quickly turns.
It is important to keep the clay in the correct state of moisture; if too soft the tool will enter into the clay too deeply and if too hard it cannot create a continues paten.
Working method;
When the piece has been turned and polished, center it again on the wheel. Holding the tool firmly between your fingers and with your arm firmly supported, start turning the wheel; indenting the tip of the tool, when you notice a strong vibration, it is because it is creating the Kanna method. Move the tool from the top to the bottom, changing its angle, the speed of the wheel and the pressure on the tool. They all affect the final result.
You cannot see the pattern that is being created because of the speed of the wheel, if you want to you can occasionally stop the wheel to check the result. When you stop and restart the pattern of the incisions changes, the continuation is never the same.
Decorative methods;
1) Apply slip over the piece, when it has lost the brightness it can be touched without damaging it, put it on the wheel on a cuck and start at the top or bottom to apply the tool, stating gently.
2) Once the decoration on the clay is finished, oxides or slips can be applied into the grooves. When they are dry enough, pass a knife or metal tool that is very fine to take off the ruff surface.
3) After being fired you can apply a clear coat transparent glaze that covers the surface to enhance the effects of the grooves and highlight the texture.
Tools.
You can make your own tools or purchase them.
The tools must be flexible enough to create the pattern in the movement of the lathe.
With tin shears and gloves, cut into desired shapes with debris or lids of cans, flexible aluminum or steel, pieces of strap.
The blades also work if one party is cut into round shape. Secure with tape the opposite side to avoid being sharp and able to put more pressure on the incisions.
Note: Be careful with the tools, so as to avoid cutting yourself, You must not forget you are decorating with sharp tools and whith the wheel turning at the maximum speed.
Addvice.
It is not an easy decorative technique; it requires time to learn and to dominate the way to use the wheel and to use the correct tools. When one achieves the result desired, vibrates like a piece of pottery. Each Kanna has a different result, it is almost impossible to create two pieces the same, the Japanese potter Shiga Shigeo was a great master of this technique.
Illustrations; (a) Núria Pié. (b-c) Shigeo Shiga. (d-e) Ellen Rusdorp.
The drawings and photos show and name the different parts of a kiln. 
a) The control box,
a) The peephole.

Kiln heat controller is a thermocouple consists of a porcelain sheath that is passed through the hole at the side of your kiln. The length of the sheath depends on the width of the wall of your kiln. It transfers the temperature of the kiln on to the pyrometer, which interprets it into digits. It can be attached to a temperature controller and depending on its quality; it can completely control the process of firing, from beginning to end.
Kiln Shelves: There are many types, makes, shapes and sizes and they are to make floors. Tube props are built up to the height required and the shelves are put on top. This allows work to be supported at different heights.
Kiln test colors Small Kilns for testing colors are useful if you make up your own colors, but they do have problems because as they are small, the heat rises quicker than a normal kiln and I find this alters the colors slightly. This kiln takes bits of bisque 5 cm wide by 15 cm long. Mark them on the back with a code; lay them on top of another piece of bisque which is used as a tray and is slightly larger to protect the kiln, should the colors run. Firing up to 1000ºC takes 50 minutes. The box behind the kiln is a transformer as it was made to use with less electrical force 110. This shows you how old it is now all Europe is basically the same 220. This sufficient for what I need but now you can buy very good industrially made ones.
Ventilation for an electric kiln: Ventilation for electric kilns for small workshops is made through three small holes, peepholes the two in the wall and vent hole the one in the lid. The vapors escape through the holes during the first stage of firing and are closed with plugs when firing of clay and enamels reaches the temperature around 600°C. This helps to conserve energy until the kiln arrives at the final temperature and during this period no fumes or odors are released. Electric kilns that are packed from above do not have vent holes like the ones that open at the front nor do they have chimneys as electric firing gives out little contamination.
Kitchen timer is like a clock that can be set to ring when a certain period of time has passed. I have a small kiln for firing trial colors which has no time control and for this it is excellent.
Knobs: The name for a small protruding part at the top of a lid or on the side of a basin or vase which is held when picking the piece up. It is a small handle and can be constructed as part of a lid or added later. In the case of a jar, it always added.