Ceramic Dictionary

by Susan Mussi

PACKING (a) Kilns

ca: CARREGAR (a) Forns

es: CARGAR (a) Hornos

Packing kilns: Firing is one of the big expenses in ceramics and it’s important not to waste space or time. Kilns can be rectangular, round, octagonal, square or oval and they either open from the top or at the front. Large industrial ones are very well designed, they are square or rectangle and the inside is a trolley on wheels that can be packed outside the kiln. This allows you to work on all four sides and mount the floors one by one. When completely packed it is pushed back into the kiln.

All kilns have their good and bad points and you have to consider the shape and size you buy in relation to what you work with. Kilns that open at the top have some advantages; you can see the whole floor from above, which allows you to arrange and change the layout and check that the decorated pieces do not touch.

Kiln furniture is very important, there are many different pieces. You need enough to build and fill up your kilns well and quickly. The furniture you buy can be customized to special sizes. With an electric drill, as explained in the section “Tile – Electric cutter”, you can cut and file furniture and industrially made bisque tiles are cheap and can be cut down to make shelves to the sizes you need.

It is good to have your work separated by floors. This helps to limit the damage that can occur, should a piece explode or colors run. Such an accident can cause the scattering of bits of clay, which can break, damaging the kiln and all the work inside it.

If your kiln uses a cones, make sure they are not touching anything.
See: Kiln – Furniture

PACKING (b) Clay to bisque fire

ca: CARREGAR (b) Argila per la cocció de bescuit

es: CARGAR (b) Arcilla para coccion de bizcocho

Packing clay: before starting make sure the kiln is clean, none of the furniture is broken or has glaze from a previous firing.
Always check to what temperature the clay you are using can and should be fired to. Over-firing clay can turn it into a liquid and destroy your kiln. Clay shrinks during firing. If you fire clay to its correct temperature, shrinking will stop, but if you under-fire it, shrinking will continue when it is re-fired. There are two way of firing and each one has different methods.

a) The clay is fired to become bisque.
b) The clay and the decorating are fired together.

When packing clay, it does not matter if the pieces touch as they never stick to each other, plates and lids can be piled up, bowls boxed, one upside down on top of the other and a lid can be in the article it was made for. Objects that are thick and heavy like tiles, leave a space between pieces to ensures that the strong gases escape during the first hours of firing, this helps the temperature to spread evenly throughout all parts of the kiln and round the ware. The effects of uneven heating and cooling are the main causes of cracking, warping and breaking and this is particularly important if the clay is thick.

Tiles are thought of as easy to make as their shape is so simple but firing them is difficult, one of the main problems is that they are large, fat and thick and if he heat differs in places it can cause warping and breaking. If the tiles are thick they can be fired standing, balancing them on their sides and if not lay them onto a flat shelf with a thin layer of sand, which helps their movements as they contract during the firing.
See: Kiln – Furniture

PACKING (c) Decorated work

ca: CARREGAR (c) Peces decorades

es: CARGAR (c) Piezas decoradas

Packing decorated work: Great care must be taken so that the kiln and the work being fired are not damaged in any way. Slip and glazes must not touch anything, each other, the walls of the kiln, the floor or shelves, furniture, etc. when being fired and all the parts or the footings which they stand on must be cleaned of glaze, since it acts as a glue and when fired will weld on to any object it touches and make it impossible to separate without damaging the work.

Packing Plates
a) Packing – with the danger of glaze running:
Should there be any danger of a glaze or color running, put the vessel on top of 3 or 4 bits and put these on a bisque tile. The tile will stop the floor of your kiln being damaged and if the glaze runs into the space in-between, will make it easier to twist and separate the pieces.

b) Plate stands: there are many types of cranks for plates and these are generally good if your plates are made with molds and therefore all the same size, but if handmade and varying in size, they are more difficult to fit in.

c) Plate shelf: take up more room but are quicker and safer, they made-up with bisque tiles cut to the required sizes and are supported by tube props. Stilts or spurs can be used , but as putting them on top or under a plate always damages the glaze and they will have to be repaired and repaired work is never perfect.

Packing Pots and Lids When decorated to move them is difficult to do without touching and damaging the decoration and some lids are designed so that the flange is high enough to put your fingers under the lip to move. If picked up and a part that is decorated is touched it will have to be repaired when it is in the kiln.

d) The best way is to put the pots and the lids on top of a bisque that has been cut down to the size needed; it can be moved, using the tile like a tray and does not have to be touched throughout the whole process, from decorating on the wheel to putting the tray into the kiln.
e) Pots can be moved y putting your hand inside the neck and with the pressure of your finger against the inside the neck they can be lifted and moved.
f) Lids, as they are short can be built up one top of the over using tube props to support the tile shelves. that

Packing Tiles Tile stands also known as cranks; the illustration shows two types of tile stands
g) Is dismountable.
h) Is one piece. for kilns that open at the side both can be used but for ones that open at the top the second as it has to be lifted up and put down into the kiln.

A big problem with tile stands is fitting them into your kiln without wasting space. Make sure when you buy a kiln there is enough room to stand one on top of another. One of their bad points is that the ones for different sized tiles are of different heights and this makes building up floors complicated. Kiln that open at the top has to be packed from above, so the large tile stands must be made in one piece. They have to held at the top and lower onto the kiln. If your kiln opens from the front, other types of stands can be used. If you work with tiles a lot, you should have numerous stands, so when you have finished painting, the tiles can put directly into them, thus avoiding the damage that occurs when moving them from one place to another. The less you touch and move your finished work, the better.

i) Small separate wall-stands: These are handmade to hold from two to four tiles of any size. They are short because they are separate and have to be held together securely when being moved. They are used mainly for packing borders 7,5 × 15cm, corners 7,5 × 7,5cm.to fill up the leftover spaces when packing. In the section on molds it is explained how to make them.
See: Mold: 5 Hand made cranks

PACKING (d) Process

ca: CARREGAR (d) Procés

es: CARGAR (d) Proceso

Click on the title to see more images

Packing kilns that open at the top, use tile stands which are one piece and hold 14 tiles of 15 × 15cm, and wall-stands holding corner tiles of 7,5 x 7,5cm and borders of 7,5 × 15 cm, they are short and mounted one on top of another. One floor holds seven tile stands, 98 tiles; two corner stands, 8 corners, two border stands with 8 borders. Try and place the tile stand so the wall of one is against the edges of the tiles of another, this allows them to touch as they are both clean of glazes and the small wall-stands can rest against the big stands, it makes them safer.

The bottom lair of the kiln.
a) With the big stands first level and straighten out the tiles by holding a straight tool, like a ruler against the sides, then lift up the stand, holding it at the top and let it down into the kiln.
b) The wall-stands mounted on the wall of the kiln.
c) Mounted on a wooden shelf can be laid across the side of the kiln.

Packing and moving small, separate, wall-stands should be done as near to the kiln as possible, they are separate and when full difficult to move. Holding both sides firmly, lift them up and move them down into the kiln, to fill the remaining spaces.

The top layer of the kiln.
The top layer of the kiln: is the same as the first.
1) The top floor of tile stands.
2) On top of the stands there is room for 4 odd tiles. The following list explains the tiles, going clock wise and starting with the one with writing.
It measures 20×20cm with words in Spanish, Catalan, and English.
A redo of one tile from a large design that broke.
The number 16 is a tile 20×20cm and 1 cm thick, it is a copy of antique stile in shape and lettering, it had to be cut down to form this shape.
The tile is 20×15cm, shows Montserrat. It had to be repaired and this is its second firing
3) The kiln opened after firing
Note: A close-ups of all the tiles in the kiln before and after firing can be seen in the section “Firing.”
See: Kiln – Furniture / Firing (b) Process

PADDLE

ca: PALETA

es: PALETA

Paddle (and anvil):
a) A paddle is a piece of thick heavy wood.
b) An anvil is an oval shaped piece of fired clay, wood or stone.
The paddle is like a bat, it can be with of with out a handle and is used to hit a clay wall on one side while on the other an anvil is held to support it. This thins, flattens and compresses the clay, it makes the walls strong and as you work you can build up and form a shape. They are used in coiling to flatten it out the coils.

PAINT/ To

ca: PINTAR

es: PINTAR

To paint is the act of putting liquid colors on to a surface using a brush. It can be figurative, abstract or just a flat surface.

PAINTING POTTERY

ca: PINTAR CERÀMICA

es: PINTAR CERÁMICA

Painting potter can be done in the following different stages and by the following methods:
On to raw clay with slips and glazes
On to bisque with oxides or glaze stains
On to a glaze-base with oxides or glaze stains
On to fired glazes with enamel colors

PALETTE KNIFE

ca: ESPÀTULA

es: ESPÁTULA

Palette knife: the word knife leads to a misunderstanding as it means it can cut and a palette knife cannot. It is metal, has a flat, thin, flexible blade with a half circular end, which is attached to a handle. The drawings on the right show ones with different shapes and the only part that is curved is the neck that connects the handle to the blade. They are made in different sizes and used for mixing, blending, cleaning, grinding down colors and stains and other products.

PAPPER CUTTER

ca: TRITURADOR DE PAPER

es: TRITURADOR DE PAPEL

Paper cutters are machines to chop unwanted paper onto small pieces. There are many types and a small electric one is easy to use and not expensive. Cut down paper is very useful for packing delicate ceramic objects.

PARTICLE

ca: PARTÍCULES

es: PARTÍCULAS

Particles are fine grains of 50 microns or less and are minute parts that cannot be seen. Grain defines sizes larger than 50 microns. Clay dries quicker on the outside than in the thinner parts, so if the work has varying densities, great care must be taken that all the particles are completely dried out, or cracks will result.

PENCIL

ca: LLAPIS

es: LÁPIZ

1) Pencil* is a slender tube of wood containing a thin center of lead or a coloring material and is used for writing and drawing.
2) Ceramic pencils* look like ordinary colored pencils but they are prepared in a special way to draw on bisque or a glazed surface. When the design is finished, it has to be covered by transparent glaze and can be fired at between 720º C to 980º C.

PESTLE

ca: MÀ DE MORTER

es: MAJA DE MORTERO

Pestle is a tool used for breaking down solid products by hand. Some are made of wood but the best have a wooden handle and stone head. They are usually sold together with a mortar which is a bowl, either in china or stone, made ro hold the products while they are being broken down.
See: Mortar

PIERCED - Decoration

ca: CALAT - Decoració

es: CALADO - Decoración

Click on the title to see more images

Pierced decoration refers to holes cut into jars and plates as a decoration. Once the clay is leather-hard it can be pierced. Strong, sharp bladed tools and hole boring implements are needed for pierced decoration. The pattern should be worked out in advance and marked onto the dry clay.

1) When making the pattern, take into account that the parts of clay left between the holes must be strong enough not to break, the more spaces there are, the weaker it becomes.
2) Use fine, sharp blades to cut holes.
3) While cutting, support the piece from behind with your other hand or hold an object against it.
4) If the cutting has left a rough edge, smooth it out with a wet soft brush.

PIG-SKIN

ca: PELL DE TARONJA

es: PIEL DE NARANJA

Pig-skin is a badly glazed surface with a pin-pricked texture that resembles pigskin and is also known as orange peel.

PIGGY BANK

ca: GUARDIOLA DE PORC

es: HUCHA DE CERDO

Piggy bank is used to save money; it is a ceramic money box which is hollow and made in the shape of a pig. On the top there is a narrow, open space through which coins can be dropped. Nowadays, they can be bought with a hole underneath and a cork to block it, so they can be emptied. In the past they were made without this and had to be broken to be emptied.

PIN-HOLES

ca: FORATS

es: AGUJEROS

1) Small holes that can appear in slip or glaze that has be under fired.
2) Fine holes, using a pin-pencil that are pricked through the outline of a drawing on paper or transparent paper, this method is known as pouncing. The design is then marked on to ceramic work with vegetable-ash, when marking a light colored product or industrial talcum powder a dark one.
See: Pouncing

PIN-PENCIL

ca: LLAPIS PER PUNXAR

es: LAPIZ PARA PINCHAR

Pin-pencil is used to make holes into the drawing you want to mark onto ceramic ware. The method of marking these holes is known as pounced. The thinner the pin, the smaller and closer the holes are, the better your design will be marked on. You can either use a mechanical lead pencil or make your own.

Mechanical pin-pencil.
With pliers, cut off the head off the pin, put the blunt end into the mechanical pencil, the same way as you would put in the lead. This is practical as the pin, just like the lead, can be rolled down when not being used and is safe.

Wooden pin-pencil.
1) Using a pencil or rod of wood, force a pin into one end with pliers and then with pliers cut off its head.
2) Take the pin out, turn it round and stick the blunt end into the hole you have made, forcing it as much as possible, so it is firm. When not being used, for safety, stick it into a rubber.

PINCHING - clay

ca: PESSIC - Fent un bol amb la tècnica del pessic

es: PELLIZCO - Haciendo un bol con la técnica de pellizco

Click on the title to see more images

Pinching is one of the oldest methods of giving shape to clay and is cover in two sections, this is the first and there are many illustrations;
Pinching clay into a bowl
1) Make your clay into a ball.
2) Then press your thumb into the center of the ball and the outside with your fingers. Go round the edge, pinching and gradually making the walls thinner
3) As the walls get thinner, start giving it the shape you require

Javier Fanlo specialist in pinching and has very kindly given us permission to use his photos Link to www.lahuerva.es.

PINCHING - plus coiling clay

ca: PESSIC - Pessic i rotllos d'argila en un bol

es: PELLIZCO - Pellizco y rollos de arcilla en un bol

Click on the title to see more images

Pinching a bowl that has been started with coils.
1) With continues coils build up the shape of bowl upside down.
2) Turn the right way up, flatten and thin the wall by pinching,

Javier Fanlo specialist in pinching and has very kindly given us permission to use his photos Link to www.lahuerva.es.

PIP

ca: PUNTA

es: PUNTA

Pip: is a piece of kiln furniture made to support plates and other pieces, so they do not touch the floor while being glaze-fired. They are made in clay with very fine points and bisque-fired. The fine point is because they have to touch a part that is decorated during firing which may adhere to it. When taken out of the kiln the pip has to be twisted very sharply to separate it from the main piece, as the point is so fine this is easy but it always leave a small mark in the glaze.

This photo shows two pips, the one on the right is industrially made and used as a model for making a mold. The one on the left was casted from the mold. They are in front of a pen-drive that is 1,5 cm wide and 5,5 cm long. This is to show how small they are and how much the one on the left has shrunk after being fired.

Pips are very easy to make using a mold; how to make one is explained in the section
See: Mold: 2 Pips

PITCHER

ca: AIGUAMANS

es: AGUAMANIL

Pitcher Pitcher is the name for the jug that goes with a wash basin. Used in the past to provide washing facilities before modern water installation existed.

PLASTER

ca: GUIX

es: YESO

Plaster is a composition of lime or gypsum, sand, water. It is applied onto walls, ceilings, etc., to form a flat finish surface, then left to harden and dry after which it is usually painted.

PLASTER OF PARIS

ca: GUIX DE PARÍS

es: YESO DE PARÍS

Plaster of Paris: Is an industrially made powder used for many different porpoises from mending broken bones to making molds. It is very easy to work with, just pour water into a bucket and tip the plaster of Paris into it until rises above the water level. Mix, stir and smoothing out all the lumps by hand, using a large metal beater for cooking or a paddle paint mixer which can be attached to an electric drill. In about 3 minutes it will start to thicken and when it acquires a heavy texture, pour it over or into the piece prepared to make a mold from.
See: Mold

PLASTICITY

ca: PLASTICITAT

es: PLASTICIDAD

Plasticity: refers to the correct pliability of clay for modeling. It is when you have the right combination of clay and water so as to be able to work and make an object without it collapsing. By kneading the clay, you can obtain the plasticity required for your method of working.

PLATE

ca: PLAT

es: PLATO

Click on the title to see more images

Plate Plate: Comes from the word “plata” which means silver in Latin. It originally described flat pieces of silver, which the rich ate off. When ceramics became commercial, it changed and became “plate”. The word plate has many different meaning but when use in ceramics it applies to dishes made to use in relation to food, side plate, serving plate, soup plate, etc. and they can be of earthenware or porcelain.

PLATE - Border spacing designs

ca: PLATS – Dissenys per espaiar les vores

es: PLATO – Diseños para espaciar los bordes

Plate border spacing, the plate has been marked with a pencil line, in the center of the border at the top, the point that falls half way between the two holes on the back and is to orientate the correct marking on of the design.

Start with the plate borders: First calculate how many times you want the design to be repeated, and then prepare the drawings to size. If the design has to be repeated eight times, then the drawing has to occupy ⅛ of the circumference of the border. Starting at the pencil line already marked at the top-center, which should be marked in a different way to distinguish it from the others, mark the eight spaces round the edge, with the same distance between each one. Calipers can be used for spacing. Open them to the size needed, move around the plate, marking the points.


Plate Layout If the plates you use are moulded so each one is the same size, you can make the work quicker and more exact by doing the layout of the design on paper. The layout sets out the spaces needed to fit the repeated designs into the border. There are two basic layouts for spacing borders b) 16, 8, 4 and c) 12, 6 and 3. You need 1 piece of paper for the layout and one that is cut for each size of plate you use-

(a) For the layout, it is easier to use squared paper which should be cut out to be slightly bigger than the plate. Geometrically work out and draw the lines for the spaces needed, the more exact the better. In the layout diagram, above left, the spacing for 16, 8 and 4 is shown but the same paper can be used for the others, just by marking the lines with different colors. Draw squares that are the width of the circumference of the plates you use. Lay this paper on a flat surface and on top lay another piece of paper which has been cut in a circle to fit the size of the plate you are working with. With a ruler, mark the lines on to it, using the layout to correctly place them, then cut out a small triangle at the edge of each line so the inside point falls exactly on the line.

Lay it on top of the plate and with a soft lead pencil, mark the centers of the triangles needed for your design. If the pattern is going to be repeated eight times, mark every other one.

PLATE - Stand

ca: PLATS - Suport

es: PLATOS - Soporte

Plate stands: are to support plates vertically for displaying or working.
The structure must big enough to hold the largest plates you work with and strong enough to lose its balance with the weight of the plate.
Plate Stands
a) Photo of one that is hands made.
b) A drawing of how to use it.
c) A crank and foam-rubber used for a plate stand.
d) Plastic plate stand for displaying plates.
When working rest the plate on a bit of foam-rubber, this stops it from slipping and helps not to damage the glaze-base round the edge if it has to be turned. For this reason the edge is always the last part to be painted. When the main part is finished, put the plate on a wheel and repair and paint the outer edge.

PLATE SETTERS

ca: PRESTATGES PER A PLATS

es: ESTANTES PARA PLATOS

Plate setters are table stands, made industrially to hold decorated plates when being fired. They have three legs and are designed to stand one on top of the other.
See: Packing (c) Decorated work

PLATE SHELVES

ca: ESTANTS PER A PLATS

es: ESTANTES PAR A PLATOS

Plate shelves: are made with a curve to hold plates, these save space and are good if you work with many plates that have the same shape. They are built up, using tube props to form bridges one on top of another
See: Packing (c) Decorated work

PLATE THROWING

ca: TORNEJAT DEL PLAT

es: TORNEADO DEL PLATO

Plate throwing: Everything to do with the first stages of clay for working on the wheel is in six files: Clay (1) to Clay (6), then each piece in the dictionary is under its name
.
Because a plate is low and there is little space between it and the wheel, when the turning is finished, it becomes difficult to move without deforming it. So work on a wheel bat, this is like a tray, which allows you to move and leave it until it is leather dry. Then it can be turned over, put back on the wheel and the footing will be formed, all imperfections on the back should be removed and smoothed off and if it is going to be hung up as a decoration, holes to hang it must be made in the footing,
this is explained in section (13) Footings – Classic with throwing .
See: Wheel Bats – Handmade, wooden / Wheel Bats – Industrially made

a) The hands flatten the cone pressing the clay down.
b) With ones left hand on the edge one should press it down with the right hand to extend and flatten it.
c) With your hands on the edge and the fingers inside, the center starts to be formed.

d) Flatten the border of the plate with both hands simultaneously.
e) Flatten and form the angle of the plate.
f) The edges are rounded off and the wheel bat is moved with the plate and left to dry.

Photos lent by Revistaceramica

PLATES - Layout of designs

ca: PLATS - Traçat del disseny

es: PLATOS - Trazado del diseño

Click on the title to see more images

The designs are kept in two sections, border and center, then each section is organized by sizes and subjects. The center designs of plates can be used for the walls of jars, chalices, orzas and tiles.

Note: The photo below shows three plates that have the same shape but are decorated differently.

a) One design with 3 banding lines round the edge.
b) One border design repeated 8 times and a center design.
c) One center design and 2 borders. The border has 2 banding lines round the edge and the center.

PLUCKED WARE

ca: DESENGANXAR LES PECES

es: DESPEGAR LAS PIEZAS

Plucked ware is when decorated work is being fired and a glazed touches the furniture, wall or other objects. The glaze works as a glue and separating these parts is difficult and always damages work.

PLUG MILL

ca: MOLINS D'ARGILA

es: MOLINOS DE ARCILLA

Plug mill: is a machine for mixing, compressing and recuperating clay. They are run by electricity and made in many different shapes and sizes and important if you work with large quantities. Clay must not be too dry to put through the plug mill, which will recondition and consolidate it so that it can be used again and improves it’s strength and workability. There are plug mills for producing large and small. The name more commonly used for this machine now is extruder

PLUNGE POTS

ca: ENFONSAR EN UN BLOC

es: HUNDIR EN UN BLOQUE

Plunge Pots is to press a solid object into a block of clay, like a round or square pole of wood. This froms the center then the outer part can be shaped by slicing, beating, etc.

POISON

ca: VERÍ

es: VENENO

Poison: All dust in ceramics can be dangerous, as many of the substances used are poisonous. Most become insoluble after being fired; nevertheless, great care should be taken with raw products. Goggles, masks and gloves should be worn when working with them. A vacuum cleaner is a must for a ceramic business as a broom just sweeps the powders back into the air. See: Vacuum Cleaner

POLL

ca: PAL

es: PALO

Poll is a long, round, thin, strong bar that can be made of wood, plastic or metal.

POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL

ca: GLICOL DE POLIETILÈ

es: GLICOL DE POLIETILENO

Polyethylene glycol: The technical name for “medium”. It is a lubricant substance that is mixed with colors to make them run well, especially used for outlines and screen printing.

PORCELAIN

ca: PORCELLANA

es: PORCELANA

Porcelain comes from China and is a mixture of kaolin and feldspar and its main qualities are its strength and whiteness. Bone China was invented in England in the 18th century.

POROSITY

ca: POROSITAT

es: POROSIDAD

Porosity: is the amount of water fired clay can absorb. Clay in the plastic state has different particles filled with water, when fired to the height 600ºC it goes through the changes and becomes ceramic and is known as bisque. The spaces left where the particles have burnt away make the bisque very porous.

As the firing goes up in temperature it continues shrinking so there is less spaces and the body becomes less porous. Each type of clay has a set temperature height at which it completes its verification and if this is passed it can deform and melt. Porosity is measured by weighing the piece, boiling it in water, weighing it again, and calculating the increase in weight

POT LIFT

ca: PALES D'ELEVACIÓ

es: PALAS DE ELEVACIÓN

Click on the title to see more images

Pot lifts provide an easy method for removing thrown pots from the wheel without damage. They are made from, rust-free, high-strength aircraft aluminum alloy and are available in three sizes to fit a wide range of pottery shapes.

Illustrations
a) The two sections of a pot lifts.
b) Placed as they are used.
c) Pushed under, until they touch in prepartion to be moved.
d) Held together and lifting up.
e) Moved to a place where it will be kept.

POTS

ca: POTS

es: TARROS

Click on the title to see more images

Pot, also known as jar, is a ceramic product made to hold many different products such as earth, flowers, herbs, food, sugar and salt. It can be any size, from a large flower pot for a garden to a small salt pot for the table. It always has an opening at the top and can be with or without a lid.

POTS - For prepared colors

ca: POTS: colors ja preparats

es: TARROS: para colores ya preparados

Pots for colors are small glass ones made for yoghurt that are used for keeping prepared colors. These pots are marked with a red electric tap and each painter has a different colored so you know which one is yours and if there are colors that are very similar they are named.

POTS – With water for cleaning paint brushes.

ca: POT - aigua per netejar pinzells

es: BOTE - Con agua para limpiar pinceles

A pot or jar for cleaning paint brushes should be made of glass, large and with a wide opening. The walls inside it should be kept very clean so you can see how dirty the water is. As the dirty water adheres and dries on the glass inside it becomes impossible to see if the water is clean or dirty. Water carried by the brushes can affect the colors you are using.

a) A clean pot
b) A clean pot with dirty water
c) A dirty pot without water

POTTER

ca: TERRISSAIRE

es: ALFARERO

Click on the title to see more images

POTTER - Stages of working Potter: the word originally referred to the person who made ceramic pots and now applies to a person who works in any form of handmade ceramics, working with clay, decorating in one of the hundreds of different methods there are. The illustration has six hand painted tiles showing the process of working.

POTTERY

ca: CERÀMICA

es: CERÁMICA

Pottery is clay that has been formed into a shape, dried, fired and then glazed and can be a decorative or practical vessel. Clay is a natural product dug from the earth, a product which has decomposed from rock within the earth’s crust for millions of years and this decomposition occurred when water eroded the rock, breaking it down. In the past, there were many ceramic firms in certain locations because the earth there was suitable for making clay and each firm went through the whole process. The clay was dug out of the ground, mixed with water and screened to clean, removing all insoluble material. The water was filtered off the clay and the clay was left until it reached a semi-dry state, after which it was cut and separated into large blocks and stored in caves, sometimes for up to two years, as ageing helps to assist the plasticity.

Before being used, the clay has to be well kneaded to form a smooth plastic body for throwing and molding tiles, pots and plates. For the first firing, the pieces have to be left until the clay is bone dry. The firing of clay should start slowly, to allow it to completely dry out until it reaches 600ºC, when it turns into a ceramic. The firing continues until it reaches the required temperature for the type of clay being used. There are many different types of clays, with different colors, textures and different firing temperatures and the higher it can be fired, the stronger it becomes. Products in clay can be formed in many different ways, with the potter’s wheel, molds, sculpture and cut or stamped into squares or slabs and they can be decorated by shaping the clay with different techniques, fluting, drawing, coiling, indenting, etc.

Clay, when fired, changes into a material that is solid, breakable but still porous and is known as bisque. The firing can be split into two sections, slip firing, when the clay and colors are fired together in one firing and bisque firing, when the clay is fired, becomes bisque, is then decorated and fired again. Each of these methods has many variants and it is the glaze in the slip and the decorating that make the clays vitreous.

POTTER´S WHEEL

es: TORNO DEL ALFARERO

A potters wheel is an instrument used for shaping and decorating pottery. There are three method which are classified by the type of energy used to turn the wheel; hand, foot and electric .

POUNCING

ca: PUNXANT

es: PINCHANDO

Pouncing is to prick holes through the outlines of a design so it can be marked on to another object. Lay a thin piece of cloth over a hard surface. The cloth should be just thick enough to let the point of the pin go through the paper. Flip the tracing paper with the design so the backside is facing up and lay it on top of the cloth. Pounce holes through the outlines with a pin pencil.

Remember, the smaller the holes and the closer together they are, the better the drawing will be marked on. The marking comes out more clearly when the paper is flipped for pouncing, because the rough side not against the tile.

To pounce a drawing on paper, put it on a piece of cloth and pounce the lines of the drawing directly through the paper. Once finished turn it round and scrape the back, which helps to get rid of the rough texture which could scratch the base when you mark the design. If the paper is hard and difficult to pounce, you can soften it with a dry bar of soap. You can also put a tracing paper on top of the drawing and pounce through both and then smooth the back of it.
See: Marking bag for charcol / Marking Tiles – Large Designs / Marking Tiles – Small Designs

POURING

ca: ABOCAMENT

es: VERTIDO

1) Pouring To cover a piece of clay or bisque by tipping a glaze-color over it. This method is used for jars and deep bowls.
a) Do the inside of the bowl first. Hold it over a basin, pour some glaze into it, tip it sideways and turn it until the glaze covers the inside wall. Then tip out the remaining glaze.
b) With a plate turn it upside down and hold it at a slight angle, turn the bowl to cover all the back.
c) With a jug put it upsided down on a wheel, turm the wheel while pouring the glaze over it so it runs down, round and off,

2) Pouring: is the process of filling a plaster mold with casting slip (liquid clay) to create a clay object. Once the plaster mold is removed, the clay object is known as greenware or unfired clay.

POWDER

ca: POLS

es: POLVO

Powder is a solid substance reduced to a state of fine, loose particles by crushing, grinding, disintegration, etc.

PRESS MOULDING

ca: MODELAT per pressió

es: MOLDEADO A PRESIÓN

Press molding. is used for plates with a slight curve that are in one piece.
There are two types –

A hump mold is curves outwards and a flat, rolled out piece of clay is laid over it. It is usually made with a handle, to make separating it from the clay easier.
A drop mold is formed with the curved shape of a plate indented and the clay is laid (dropped) into it.
See: Mold – Press Mold

PRIMARY CLAY

ca: ARGILA PRIMÀRIA

es: ARCILLA PRIMARIA

Primary clay, is clay that has remained in the same ground in which they were formed. There are few and the main one is China clay. Its characteristics are whiteness and strength and it is the main base for porcelain china, also called residual clay.

PROCESS

ca: PROCÉS

es: PROCESO

Process is the continuous action, operation, or series of changes taking place in a definite manner: The process of ceramics is the changed it goes through from clay to become a fired and decorated.

PROCESSING

ca: PROCEDIMENT

es: PROCEDIMIENTO

Processing: A series of actions, changes, or functions bringing about a result making of a product

PROP

ca: SUPORT

es: SOPORTE

Prop: is a support used to hold up another object from falling or moving, it can be applied to everything from a pole to a person.
1) A strong pole propped up the branch of a tree.
2) A group helped to prop up an unpopular government.
3) In pottery they are tubes of different shapes and sizes to support shelves and floors in a kiln.
See: Tube props

PROPANE

ca: PROPÀ

es: PROPANO

Propane gas-fired commercial and home-built kilns are quite common. However, this process seems to generate more questions than any other, especially on the subject of propane tanks. If the propane tank is not large enough, for example, it will freeze up and be unable to supply the necessary fuel. People often underestimate the number of tanks needed for a firing and the rate at which a given tank can supply gas.

PROTRACTOR

ca: TRANSPORTADOR

es: TRANSPORTADOR

Protractor is a flat, semicircular made of transparent plastic with graduating degrees marked onto it and used for measuring and drawing angles.

PULLING

ca: ESTIRAR

es: ESTIRAR

Pulling hold the clay in both hands; pull it downwards with you right hand, slowly and evenly to make it into a long round cylinder, then press and indent it for shape and form. This can then be attached to the main body to form a handle. Another way is to attach the clay to the jar first and then pull it. See Clay Handles.

PYROMETER

ca: PIRÒMETRE

es: PIRÓMETRO

Pyrometer: An instrument for measuring temperatures in ceramics it works with a sheath which is put through the peephole of the kiln. This transfers the temperature of the kiln to the pyrometer, which interprets it into digits so that they can be read. Some are now made with a temperature controller and depending on their quality they can completely control the process of firing, from beginning to end.